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RAKI
Raki (Turkish raki IPA: [rak?]) is an anise-flavored apéritif that is produced
by twice distilling either only suma or suma that has been mixed with ethyl
alcohol in traditional copper alembics of 5000 lt volume or less with
aniseed.[1] It is similar to several kinds of alcoholic beverages available in
the Mediterranean and parts of the Balkans, including orujo, pastis, sambuca,
ouzo, tsikoudia, tsipouro, and mastika. The general consensus is that all these
liqueurs preceded arak, a similar arabic liqueur, but it remains a theory. In
the Balkans, however, Raki refers to a drink made from distilled grapes or grape
skins and pips, similar to Italian Grappa.
Raki-water, the national drinking tradition, is called Aslan Sütü, meaning
Lion's Milk in Turkish, milk because of its color, and, lion as it stands for
courageous, strong, a true man's beverage.
ETYMOLOGY
The word Raki itself derives from the Arabic ??? [?araq], other variants being
Araka, Araki, Ariki[3]. There are many theories behind this beloved beverage's
name. Araq means sweat in Arabic[4], which could refer to "condensate"[4]. or to
that which makes one sweat (If one drinks too much raki one does sweat and when
raki is being distilled it falls drop by drop like sweat).[5] It has also been
suggested that the word may derive from Iraq-i, which could be translated into
of-from Iraq.[6]. But the origins of the word remain a mystery.
History
Raki has been established in Greek territory since Byzantine times. Early
references to Raki are made in numerous Byzantine manuscripts, one particular
manuscript the Mount Athos Manuel (469) which dates from the eighth century
mentions raki (that is raqi or alcohol) which is distilled four or five
times.[7]
Until 19th century, meyhanes, mostly run by non-muslim Ottomans, would mainly
serve wine along with meze. Although there were many Muslims among meyhane
attendants, sharia authorities could, at times, persecute them. With the
relatively liberal atmosphere of Tanzimat Turkey, meyhane attendance among
Muslims rose considerably. However, believers would still approach wine with a
certain suspicion. Raki, which at those times resembled arak, became a favourite
among meyhane-goers. By the end of the century, raki took its current standard
form and its consumption surpassed that of wine.
During the days of the Ottoman Empire raki was produced by distillation of grape
pomace (cibre) obtained during wine fermentation. When the amount of pomace was
not sufficient, alcohol imported from Europe would be added. If anise was not
added, it would take the name düz raki ("straight raki") or douziko (in Greek).
Raki prepared with the addition of gum mastic was named sakiz rakisi or mastika,
especially produced on the island of Tenedos.
Mustafa Kemal (later to have his surname Atatürk), the founder of the Turkish
Republic, had a great appreciation for the liquor and consumed vast quantities
of it. During the first years of the Republic, the grape alcohol (named suma)
began to be directly distilled from grapes by the state-owned sprits monopoly,
Tekel. With the increasing sugar beet production, Tekel also began to distill
the alcohol from molasses. A new brand of raki with an amount of sugar beet
alcohol was called Yeni Raki ("New Raki"). Molasses gave raki the famous bitter
taste and helped it to become a table drink.
Types
The standard raki is a grape product, though it may also be produced from
various fruits. Raki produced from figs, particularly popular in southern
provinces of Turkey, is called incir bogmasi, incir rakisi or, in Arabic, tini.
Tekel ceased producing fig raki in 1947. However, to this day, it has been
produced clandestinely.
Suma is generally produced from raisins but raki factories around established
wine producing areas (Tekirdag, Nevsehir, Izmir) may also prefer to use fresh
grapes additionally, which help to obtain a better quality. Recently, the types
of raki produced from fresh grapes, called yas üzüm rakisi, have become quite
popular. A recent brand, Efe Raki, was the first company to produce raki
exclusively of fresh grape suma, called Efe Yas Üzüm Rakisi (Efe Fresh Grape
Raki). Tekirdag Altin Seri (Tekirdag Golden Series) followed the trend and many
others have been produced by other companies.
Dip Rakisi ("bottom raki") is the raki that is concentrated in the bottom layer
of tanks during the standard production process. Bottom layer is the layer that
is thought to capture the dense aroma and flavour of raki. It is named özel raki
("special raki") and it is not presented to general consumption but kept at raki
factories as a prestigious gift.
BRANDS
The most well known brands are Yeni Raki and Tekirdag Rakisi from the region of
Tekirdag, which is famous for its characteristic flavour. The secret of this
flavour is the artesian water from Çorlu, used in the production. While Yeni
Raki has an alcohol content of 45% and 1.5 grams of anise per litre, Tekirdag
Rakisi has 0.2 grams more anise per litre. There are also two top-quality brands
called Kulüp Rakisi and Altinbas with 50% alcohol. Yeni Raki contains about 20%
sugar beet alcohol, the other brands of Tekel are produced only from suma. Today
with the privatisation of the state-owned sprit industry different producers and
brands emerged. There are currently a considerable number of different brands
and types of raki available, including Efe Raki, Mercan Raki, Fasil Raki, Burgaz
Raki. Sari Zeybek Rakisi, another recent brand, is kept in oaken aging barrels,
which give the raki a distinctive golden colour.
Raki is served with white cheese, melon and meze.
CALVADOS (SPIRIT)
A bottle of calvados Pays D'AugeCalvados is an apple brandy from the French
région of Lower Normandy.
HISTORY
Apple orchards and brewers are mentioned as far back as the 8th century by
Charlemagne. The first known Norman distillation was carried out by ‘Lord’ de
Gouberville in 1554, and the guild for cider distillation was created about 50
years later in 1606. In the 17th century the traditional ciderfarms expanded but
taxation and prohibition of cider brandies were enforced elsewhere than
Brittany, Maine and Normandy. The area called ‘Calvados’ was created after the
French Revolution, but ‘Eau de vie de cidre’ was already called ‘calvados’ in
common usage. In the 19th century output increased with industrial distillation
and the working class fashion for ‘Café-calva’. When a phylloxera outbreak
devastated vineyards calvados experienced a ‘golden age’. During World War 1
cider brandy was made for armaments. The appellation contrôlée regulations
officially gave calvados a protected name in 1942. After the war many
cider-houses and distilleries were reconstructed, mainly in the Pays d'Auge.
Many of the traditional farmhouse structures were replaced by modern agriculture
with high output. The calvados appellation system was revised in 1984 and 1996.
Pommeau got its recognition in 1991; in 1997 an appellation for Domfront with
30% pears was created.
PROCESS OF FABRICATION
The fruit is picked and pressed into a juice that is fermented into a dry cider.
It is then distilled into eau de vie. After two years aged in oak casks, it can
be sold as Calvados. The longer it is aged, the smoother the drink becomes.
Usually the maturation goes on for several years. A half-bottle of
twenty-year-old Calvados can easily command the same price as a normal-sized
bottle of ten-year-old Calvados.
Double and single distillation
A calvados pot stillThe appellation of AOC calvados authorizes double
distillation for all calvados but it is required for the AOC calvados Pays
d’Auge.
Double distillation is carried out in traditional alembic pot-still ‘l'alambic ŕ
repasse’ or ‘charentais’. Gives complex, delicate and rich fruity aromas with
potential for longer aging.
Single continuous distillation in a column still. Gives a fresh and clean apple
flavour but less complex flavour to evolve with longer aging.
Tasting
Calvados is the basis of the tradition of le trou Normand, or "the Norman hole".
This is a small drink of Calvados taken between courses in a very long meal,
sometimes with apple sorbet, supposed to re-awaken the appetite. Calvados can be
served as aperitif, blended in drinks, between meals, as digestive or with
coffee. Well-made calvados should naturally be reminiscent of apples and pears,
balanced with flavours of ageing. You will notice that the less aged calvados
distinguishes itself with its fresh apple and pear aromas. The longer the
calvados is under the influence of oak, the more the taste resembles that of any
other aged brandy. Older calvados get the colour of gold, darker brown with
orange elements and red mahogany. The nose and palate is delicate with
concentration of aged apples and dried apricots balanced with butterscotch, nut
and chocolate aromas.
Producers
• Pčre Magloire
• Christian Drouin Coeur de Lion
• Comte Louis de Lauriston
• Lecompte
• Manoir d'Apreval
• Huet
• Charles de Granville
• Calvados Roger Groult
• Chateau du Breuil
• Coquerel
• Boulard
• Dupont
• Ferme du Ponctey
Calvados in popular culture
In the 1963 novel On Her Majesty's Secret Service by Ian Fleming, James Bond
drinks a glass of ten-year-old Calvados.
Calvados is the main characters' favourite drink in Erich Maria Remarque's novel
Arch of Triumph.
Calvados is often referred to in the writings of mystic George Gurdjieff.
Cornelius Bear is known to have a stash of several well-aged bottles of calvados
in the webcomic Achewood.
FENNY
Fenny is an Indian liquor made from either coconut or the juice of the cashew
apple. Fenny (also feni) originated in Goa, and the Goan fenny is generally
considered superior, with the best brand being "Big Boss" (available both in
coconut and (slightly more expensive) cashew versions). The other popular brands
of Fenny are 'Cashyo' (the makers of which spell it as feni) and 'Reals'
(pronounced as Reaals). Feni made from the cashew apple is known as Kaju feni
(cashew feni).
In the traditional method of making cashew feni, the cashew apples are manually
crushed in a coimbi, a rock on the hill which is carved or shaped like a basin
with an outlet for the juice. The juice is collected in a huge earthen pot
called Kodem, which is buried in the ground. The juice is then distilled in
earthen or copper pots.
When the cashew apples are crushed, the pulp is arranged in the shape of a cake
in the coimbi and tied with a string. A huge boulder is then placed on top of
it. The final quota of juice which trickles out in a clean form is called Neero.
Many people like to drink Neero since it helps bowel movement and provides
relief from constipation.
The traditional method of distilling cashew feni on the hill is very interesting
to watch. The cashew juice is put in a big pot called Bhann. The Bhann serves as
a closed boiler. It is connected to a smaller pot called Launni by means of a
conduit. The Launni serves as a receiver or collector.
The juice in the big pot is then boiled by burning firewood under it. As the
process of vaporisation and distillation goes on and the concentrated liquid
collects in the smaller pot, the pressure in the receiver is kept in check by
pouring cold water on it, typically with a wooden ladle. The first stage of
processing may be done on big fire but the later stage of distillation has to be
done on slow fire to keep the pressure and heat under control. The process of
distilling feni with such apparatus takes about 8 hours and is locally called
Bhatti.
One can tell from a distance that feni is being distilled since the surrounding
area is filled with its aroma. And this aroma attracts many feni consumers, who
halts in their tracks when their nostrils receive the smell.
The liquor produced from cashew is of three grades: Urrac, Cazulo and Feni. The
Urrac is the product of first distillation. It is light and can be consumed
neat. Its strength ranges between 14 and 16 grao. However, when consumed in
excess, Urrac intoxicates the mind like any other hard liquor. The Urrac is said
to go well with orange or lemon.
The Cazulo is the product of second distillation. It is moderately strong. The
Cazulo can be consumed either neat or in a diluted form depending upon the
lining and resistance of one’s alimentary tract. However it is not seen in the
market today.
The product, which we get after the process of third distillation is called feni.
Its strength ranges between 20 and 24 grao. It has a long shelf life. Now that
the Cazulo is not made, feni is produced after second distillation itself. The
second or third-hand feni is a product par excellence.
High-grade feni is 42% alcohol by volume. There are known to exist about 4,000
such traditional mini-distilleries or stills in Goa that manufacture cashew feni
and about 2,200 manufacturing coconut feni. About 75% of stills making cashew
feni are in north Goa and the rest are in south Goa. As far as the stills making
coconut feni are concerned, south Goa has about 65% of them and the rest are in
north Goa. This is an indication that north Goa abounds in cashew trees while
south Goa has more coconut trees.
Fenny is often used in cocktails. Two common mixers are tonic water and
lemonade, but it can also be enjoyed on its own, on the rocks, or perhaps with a
slice of lime.
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